Let’s talk about thread…
Thread is one of those items that seems so mundane that
as a quilter or someone who sews other projects, you just kind of take it for
granted. But we shouldn’t. Not really.
It is, after all, thread that holds everything together.
So this is one of those blogs that’s not going to have
so many pretty pictures, but is going to have lots of (hopefully) good
information you may want to keep in mind.
When a quilter glances at the top or bottom of a spool
of thread, one of the first things that is noticeable is the weight.
Most threads in the United States are labeled either 50, 40, or 30
weight. The higher the number, the
thinner the thread. So a 50 weight
thread is much thinner than a 30 weight thread.
And that’s really about all the numbers really tell
you. The United States adopted this
grading system from the Japanese, who really are much better than we are at
it. The Japanese would label their
thread 50/2 or 50/3. A spool of thread
labeled 50/2 is comprised two strands of thread and a 50/3 is made of three
strands of thread…so a 50/2 is still thinner than a 50/3. Somehow most of the US manufacturers decided
that the second number wasn’t worth the effort and didn’t print them on the
spools. That’s why you can look at two
different brands of 50-weight thread and one may look thicker than the other –
because one is probably made of three strands and the other is made of
two.
So which is the best one to use? Well, that depends on what you’re quilting,
piecing, or sewing.
It doesn’t have to do with necessarily strength – a
three-strand thread would most likely be stronger than a two ply thread. If strength was the only factor every sewer
had to consider, we would all be using nylon.
However, there are lots of other things to consider when choosing a
thread.
What
is the thread made of?
My hands-down favorite for piecing and most of the time for quilting is
long-staple cotton thread. It’s more
commonly known as Egyptian Cotton – which is kind of a misnomer because Egyptian
long-staple cotton is grown in Turkey, Romania, Pakistan, India, Brazil, China,
and the United States – although Egypt is getting pickier about the name. It’s impossible to know just by looking at
the thread if it’s truly a long-staple cotton, but after you’ve sewn with it
awhile, you can readily tell. This type
of cotton thread sews and quilts beautifully, is low-lint, and doesn’t
break.
If you’re looking at polyester thread (and yes, you can
use polyester in quilting and should use it in garment making), you want to
consider the number of micro strands that make up the thread. If the polyester is a 50/3, it’s made of
three strands, which in turn are made up of numerous micro strands. A cheap polyester thread may only have six or
less micro strands per strand, while a high quality polyester thread may have
as many as 48-50. This is why some
polyester threads are so very, very much better than others.
How
was it processed? As anyone knows who has baked a cake, you
can start with some very good ingredients and still end up with a total
disaster depending on how you actually make the cake. Too many eggs, not enough flour, baking soda,
and salt – you have a mess, and nothing edible.
The same goes with thread.
Manufacturers can start with fantastic materials and unless they’re
processed correctly, the thread will not be high quality. It has to be twisted just right. Too loosely twisted or inconsistently twisted
will result in a thread that you will fight with during the entire creative
process. It has to be a consistent
smoothness. Slubs or thin spots will result in tension and breakage nightmares. It doesn’t need to be too “linty.”
Lint…let me just stop here and strongly advise you to
clean your machine regularly. A quilter
can use the very best thread available, but it’s still going to leave lint in
your machine. It is vitally important
that you clean your machine regularly.
Do it monthly, or at the end of every project, or when you change your
needle (which should be every eight hours of sewing time), but make sure you clean it. And find yourself a good machine guy and have
it serviced at least every 18 months.
The machine guy or gal knows how to clean your machine in areas you
can’t get to. This will greatly extend
the life of your machine and make your sewing time much more pleasurable.
Is
it easy to use? The
last thing I want to do is “fight” with the thread when I’m piecing or
quilting. It should come off the spool
or cone easily. If you’re using a cone,
it should come off of the top. Is it a
crosswise or horizontal spool of thread?
One is not better than the other, but it may make a difference which
spool pin to use on your machine. My
Janome likes the crosswise threads on the horizontal pen in the top of the
machine, but it likes the horizontal threads on the vertical pin on the top of
the machine. My Juki works better if I
use the vertical pin for all thread. So
consult your machine’s manual about this issue.
Am
I looking for Attila the Hun thread or Marvin Milk Toast? In other words, how strong
does the thread need to be? The quilting
process needs a stronger thread than piecing.
Machine embroidery thread is not going to be as strong as quilting
thread.
What
else does the label tell me? It may or may not say mercerized, because
today nearly all thread is
mercerized. When a thread is mercerized,
it means the fibers were treated with a solution that caused them to swell and
allow the dye to penetrate the fibers better.
Mercerized thread has a higher luster than non-mercerized. It should also tell you if it’s a long-staple
or short-staple thread. If it doesn’t
say this, assume it’s
short-staple. Long-staple or extra
long-staple is worth the bragging rights.
If the label says the thread is gassed or polished or has a silk-finish,
that means the cotton has been passed at a high speed through a flame to burn
off the excess fuzz in order to create a higher sheen. Glazed means the thread has been heated and
then coated with a wax, starch, or other chemicals to give it a hard
finished. Glazed threads are stiffer
than unglazed and are almost wiry. Be
careful about using a glazed thread in your machine…it can gum it up.
So what does all this mean? For quilters and other crafters, that means
we now have hundreds of thread choices.
It means that quilters are no longer confined to piecing and quilting
with only cotton thread. We can freely
use polyester because the old fear that polyester thread would cut through the
cotton fabric no longer holds true (if it every actually was true). Rayon thread is never
a good choice because it is not always colorfast. Nylon thread will discolor over time. Silk thread is beautiful, but it is
expensive. So you have to consider what
you’re going to do with the thread.
For me, piecing needs a finer thread. Heavy thread is going to cause more bulk in
the seam and may play with your quarter-inch seam. For the quilting process, it depends on the
look you want for your quilt. If the
quilter wants to show off the fabric more than the quilting, a finer thread is
needed – it won’t compete with the material.
If you want to show off your quilting skills, go for a heavier thread
that’s going to be seen. I love
variegated thread and if I’m showcasing it, I pick a long-staple medium-weight
thread. If I used a finer variegated, it
wouldn’t show.
Still, even with the best thread, there are still times
when the thread is going to break. When
this happens, if the quality of thread is not the issue, check the following:
Your needle – is the right size and the right type? Topstitching needles seem to work best for
sewing, quilting, and embroidery. It has
a wide, deep grove that protects the thread and reduces drag and friction. The eye is larger, so the thread has more
room to move. It also easily separates
the fabric fibers.
The tension – is it too tight? Most machines have an automatic tension
setting and most of the time it works just fine. However, please feel free to play with the
tension. Some thread is going to require
you to loosen the tension. The factory
tension setting is about at medium, but some threads and some applications (such
as machine applique) may need to have less tension. Metallic threads and other decorative threads
may even need to be pushed down to a one or two.
Bobbin thread tension is a little tricky, but it can be
done (never let a machine tech tell you this can’t be done). If you use a machine with a bobbin case,
there’s a screw on the side. Think of
this screw as a clock and turn it at one-hour increments (righty-tight,
lefty-loose). A thin, fine thread in the
bobbin may need it tightened just a smidge and a heavy, decorative thread may
need to be loosened a little.
And let’s address the matching bobbin/top thread issue
right here. In most newer machines now,
it’s fine to mix threads. I always use
Bottom Line thread in my bobbin. I buy it by the cone and fill all my bobbins
with it. It’s finer than what I use on
top of my machine and it performs
wonderfully. Sometimes I have to play with
my tension, but I really don’t have any issues with it at all. When I machine quilt, I do have the same
weight and brand of thread in the bobbin and on top of the machine.
Just when you change your tension, be sure to return it
to the machine settings at the end of the project. I can’t tell you how many times I have
forgotten to do this and started piecing with too loose of a tension – and the block
comes apart when I press it.
Your machine – is it clean? Is the timing off? Are there burrs on any of
the mechanisms?
The thread delivery system – is your machine threaded
correctly?
One last piece of advice about thread. Thread is like shoes – you get what you pay
for. So if you buy cheap thread, you’re
going to get poor, uncomfortable results.
In my mind, it’s never made a whole lot of sense to spend hundreds of
dollars on fabric and the scrimp on the thread.
The inferior performance irritates me.
I want the time I can spend piecing and quilting to be productive. I don’t want to fight with thread.
Likewise, if you see some really pretty old thread on
those wonderful wooden spools at an estate sale or flea market or antique
store, by all means buy them if they tickle your fancy…
And display them.
Don’t use them.
Older thread has a shelf life. The thread that’s on the market now will
still be useable 50, 60, or even 100 years from now because of the
manufacturing process. The thread that’s
so proudly displayed at antique stores – not so much. If it readily snaps when
you give it a tug, just display it and don’t put it in your machine.
What
kind of thread do you use?
I like Aurifil. I use it
regularly.
I love any of the Superior
Thread products. Bob Purcell and the
Superior Thread Company have a wonderful website that offers more information on
thread than any quilter could ever begin to comprehend. If you’re ever at a quilt show and they’re
vending, stop by their booth and plan to spend some time. I’ve ordered from them for years and their
customer service and products are second to none.
And again, I’m not on staff at any company I recommend
on this blog. I have sewn and quilted
for years and have tried lots of brands.
The brands that I mention on this blog are products that I use and
adore.
Finally,
one last note. I
love folks to email me with questions. I
love folks to leave comments on my blog.
However, in the last several weeks, I’ve had advertisers leave comments
plugging their products. This is not what this blog is for. If you advertise your website, product (even
if it’s quilting related), I will report you as well as remove your
comments. If I can find a way, I will
block you from this blog. You have been
warned.
Have a safe and wonderful Fourth of July! We are the Land of the Free because of the
Brave!
Love and
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