Quilting with Your Checkbook

Let’s talk about that last line of directions on just about any quilting pattern:  Quilt as desired…

To me this is the most ambiguous statement out there in the quilting world, because I have no idea what I desire most of the time as far as the quilting process goes.  There are those rare, few times, when I just know what I want the finished process to look like.  However, most of the time I spend hours on line thank God for Pinterest looking at different quilting motifs  before I make up my mind.

There are the times – the quilt is larger than a twin or a quilt is show-bound – when the quilt is destined for the long arm artist.  And that’s what I want to talk about today – how to get your quilt top ready for the long-arm quilter.

The long arm quilting machine is a sewing machine with a frame that ranges from 10 to 14 feet in length with an industrial machine head with a larger harp than any domestic sewing machine.  A complete long arming system typically consists of the machine head, frame, a table with a layer of plastic under which can be placed a pantograph and several rollers on which the fabric layers and batting are attached (Wikipedia). Long arms are not new to quilting world –they’ve been around since the mid-1800’s when they were turned by a crank. Over the past 10-15 years, they’ve found a place in quilt shops and homes.  Cost continues to fall on these wonderful machines, and I am sure that in the future, more of us will have one mine is coming this Christmas.

The first thing a quilter needs to do when considering long arming for her quilt, is talk to other quilters about who they would recommend as a long arm artist.  Long arm artists advertise in a lot of different venues, but I wouldn’t let one load up my quilt until I have had several of my friends recommend one.  Believe me, if a long armer isn’t worth his or her salt, quilters will let you know.

Once you’ve settled on one, call them and set up an appointment to talk about your quilt and what you want.  If the long arm artist has a waiting list, that’s a good sign.  That means he or she is talented at what they do.  The long arm quilter will ask you lots of questions:  Do you want edge-to-edge quilting (an all over quilting design done either free hand or with a pantograph or by computer) or do you want custom quilting (work done with rulers and free hand that makes each block a little different)?  What color of thread do you want on the front and back?  When do you want it completed?  If you want edge-to-edge quilting, they will ask what kind of design did you have in mind and if you want custom quilting be prepared to spend more time working with your quilter.

It’s a wonderful idea to come to this meeting with some definite designs in mind.  If you’re a little fuzzy about what you want as far as an edge-to-edge, look at the pattern and see what the designer used, or do like I do and spend some time browsing the internet.  If you want custom, arrive with sketches so that the long arm quilter has a starting point.  But always listen to your long arm artist.  They’ve got lots of experience and have done lots of quilts.  They may have a computerized design that fits perfectly or a pantograph that works better than what you have in mind.  If you do decide to have custom quilting done, be prepared to pay more per square inch than you will for an all-over design.

The long arm artist will also ask you what kind of batting you want.  If the quilt is not a show quilt, I normally defer to the preference of the long armer.  But if it’s a show quilt with applique, I use two layers – a cotton batt next to the backing and a wool batt next to the top.  The wool batting gives the applique a little extra “umph” and makes it look almost trapuntoed. 

It’s a good idea to keep in mind that a really good long arm artist is going to have several quilts ahead of yours.  Keep this in mind if you’re working on quilts for Christmas, birthdays, graduations, etc.  You will want to make sure you give the long armer enough time to quilt your quilt.

Before you take your quilt to your long arm artist, there are several items that you’re responsible for:

1.     Make sure your quilt is squared up.  We talked about this in an earlier blog but it’s really important.  Measure your quilt top (before borders are added) in three different places along the width and length.  The measurements should come out pretty close – exact is even better.  Take the average of these lengths and widths, and cut the borders.  Apply the borders evenly.  Fullness or puckers in the border can’t be quilted out.  The flatter your quilt top lays, the better your finished quilt will look.

2.    If the border is pieced, stitch 1/8-inch away from the edge.  This will help keep the pieces together and will be covered by the binding.

3.    Make sure all seams are secure and threads are clipped.  Dangling threads can show through the lighter fabrics.

4.    Press seam allowances in such a manner as to reduce bulk.  We covered this in last week’s blog.

5.    Put a safety pin at the top of your quilt.  Remember, your long arm artist is not a mind reader.  What you consider the top and what she considers the top may be two different things.  The safety pin lets her know which end is up!

6.    Don’t worry about basting your quilt or layering it.  They are loaded up on the long arm as separate layers.

7.    Press the top well and fold it accordion-style over a padded hanger to keep the wrinkles at bay.  

     

     As you’re reading this I hope you can relate to what we talked about in last week’s blog.  A great deal of the prep for the quilting (clipping threads, reducing bulk in seams) can be done as you make the top.

The back of the quilt will also need some preparation before you take it to your quilter.  If you’re like me and buy the fabric specifically made for backing (extra wide so you don’t have to piece the back), press it, accordion fold it, and hang it over another hanger.  

If you piece your back, be sure to:

1.     Cut off any selvage edges before stitching the seams and use at least a ½-inch seam allowance.  Leave the selvage edges on the outside edges of the backing.

2.    Trim the top and bottom edges of the backing so that the backing is also squared up.  This will ensure that the quilt loads into the machine straight, and that is important for keeping the design square on your top.

3.    Press the backing.

4.    Mark the top of the backing with a safety pin, just like you did the quilt top.

With a pieced backing or a non-pieced backing, be sure that the back is at least 4-6 inches wider on each side and top and bottom than the quilt top.

These are extra steps, but they are so important if you’re to have a positive experience with the long arm artist and they have a positive experience with you.  Just remember what I said earlier:  Long arm artists are not mind readers.  You have to be sure to communicate clearly with each other.  Ask questions.   Expect reasonable and good service, but not miracles.  If your quilt top isn’t all it needs to be, all the quilting in the world isn’t going to make it perfect.

There will not be a blog next week, as I am leaving with my family on Saturday for our annual Entire Fields Family Vacation also known as Can Seven Adults and Two Kids Under Five Live in One House for a Week.  Seriously.  This should be a reality show….

Love and Stitches…

Sherri and Sam

(PS Sam will not be going to the beach with us.  He, as a rule, hates to travel, even though he has a really blinged and bedazzled cat carrier with all the creature comforts he could ever think of.  Instead, he will have the house to himself and my niece is coming by to pet him and feed him.  I've hidden the catnip, so he should behave himself).