Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Quarter Inch Importance

Ahhhh the elusive quarter-inch seam. 

Every standard American quilt pattern calls for it, as well as most Australian and European patterns.  It's importance is imperative in order to make blocks consistently come out the correct size.  It's almost taken for granted by most quilters.

But actually achieving it takes some time, practice, and planning.  The right needle position, presser foot, and sewing machine can and will vary.  It's a fact of quilting life. 

There are different feet and tips that can help any quilter achieve a consistent quarter-inch seam allowance.

Let's deal with the feet first.

If you have purchased a machine that was designed with quilters in mind, you probably possess a quarter-inch foot, such as one of these:


My primary piecing sewing machine is my Janome 7700.  These are the O2 feet that come with them.  The black phalange on the right side lines up with the edge of the fabric and when my needle is in the first position, I get a consistent quarter-inch seam.



 
 
If your machine didn't come with a quarter-inch foot, consult your sewing machine dealership or search the internet to see if there is one available that fits your shank (high or low).  It will be money well spent, and they're not too expensive anyway.
 
There is another foot I use when I'm piecing a quilt that has lots of seam intersections, and that's my walking foot.
 

 
As you can see it's a bit larger than a typical foot.  It has a slot underneath the foot where the dual feed device fits in ...
 
This dual feed device literally helps "walk" the foot over the fabric (even thick fabric areas where several seams converge) so that the material doesn't slip and you end up with mismatched seams.  I have friends that only piece with their walking foot. 
 
The problem with this foot is that the quarter-inch mark is not clearly notated on the foot.  The best way to find this spot on any foot is to take a strip of fabric and accurately mark a quarter-inch line away from the edge.  Position this where your needle will intersect with it perfectly and use a Sharpie to mark that spot on your foot. 
 
If you have any doubt that any of your feet are hitting that quarter-inch seam allowance perfectly, there is a way to check it.  Cut three strips of fabric, two light and one dark, exactly an inch-and-a-half wide.
Sew them together with the dark strip in the middle.  Press the seams towards the dark strip.



Now measure the center strip.  At this point, the center strip should measure exactly one inch wide.
 
If it doesn't, you can play with your needle positions.  Even the most basic sewing machines should be able to move your needle position to the left.  My Janome can move my needle several different ways -- right, left, and center.
When you find that spot on your presser foot, be sure to mark it and make note of your needle position.
 
If your quilts contain lots and lots of pieces where seams have to match and  points can't be cut off, you may also want to invest in a walking foot.
 
There is another quarter-inch seam that is sometimes called for in some quilt patterns and that is the scant quarter-inch seam.  This means that it's not quite a whole quarter-inch seam.  It's a thread or two short of that amount. 
 
How do you know if you need to use a scant quarter-inch or a regular quarter-inch seam?  Sometimes the pattern will tell you.  If the fabric used is thick, a scant quarter-inch seam will probably be needed. And the more pieces a quilt block has, the better the chance that you need to use a scant quarter-inch seam.  But sometimes, you have to make the first block to find out.  If you make the block and it comes up short of the unfinished size required, make it again using a scant quarter-inch.  Press the block and re-measure.  If it's the exact unfinished size required (the size needed for each block before they're all sewn together in the quilt), then a scant quarter-inch is needed.  And you probably want to make a note of that on your quilt pattern for future reference. 
 
If you've done all this, and your block is still a smidge too small, try pressing all the seams open.  It will give you an additional 1/8th to 1/4th of an inch. 
 
All of this gives grounds to the argument that everyone should make a sample block out of scraps and measure it before proceeding to use the actual fabric intended for the quilt.
 
There is a scant quarter-inch foot.
 
This foot is called the "Little Foot." I don't think it comes with any sewing machine.  It can be ordered through the Big Foot website.  You have to know if your machine is a high shank or low shank and that information is usually found in your sewing machine manual.  Janomes and Pfaffs take a special type that is indicated as a low shank for Pfaffs, Janomes, and other machines that use snap-on feet. 
 
This foot is worth every penny.
 
And please remember, anything I promote in my blog, I do so because I use it and like it.  I am not recompensed in any way from any company.
 
Speaking of...Nancy's Notions has a really great seam guide out.
 
 It helps with all seam sizes and button holes.  You may want to grab one of these jewels.

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