Sunday, October 4, 2015

Living with the Fray


This week I want to continue talking about flannel quilts, highlighting using flannel with applique.  I belong to a group that is using Bonnie Sullivan’s Bertie projects and we’ve used wool on flannel and flannel on flannel for the applique.
 

Let me just say upfront that flannel is wonderful to needle turn or use the freezer paper applique method.  It responds well to either.  However, at this point, I want talk about raw-edge machine applique and the use of flannel.

After the background for applique piece is cut (remember to allow for the “fray” margin, although with machine applique you are actually handing the fabric less, thus the flannel does not fray quite so badly), stabilize it with your choice of stabilizer.  I use Sew Knit from Pellon.  I cut the stabilizer about a quarter inch larger than the background and press it on.
 
  Notice that I am using an applique pressing sheet as I do this.  This handy-dandy little tool is like Teflon for quilters.  Nothing sticks to it.  So you can iron fusible web or iron on stabilizer or interfacing on the surface and the fabric will release quickly and cleanly. 
 

After the stabilizer is pressed, cut the excess from around the background.  Then closely examine the fabric.  Flannel tends to have that cling factor – it picks up every little fiber and thread around it.  I go over mine with one of those lint rollers that can be picked up at the Dollar Store (those things are incredibly handy to have in your sewing room for a myriad of reasons).  This gets rid of even the tiny threads I can’t see.
 

One of the most frustrating things I had to overcome with flannel is that I couldn’t use a light box with it (at least most of the flannel).  Good quality flannel is not thin, so a light box is of no use.  I had to get used to “eyeballing” the layout and transferring that to the background.  For a long time not only was I not used to this, I didn’t like it.  It wasn’t precise enough.  However, given time for trial and error, I have come up with a method that I can live with. 

The first step is to mark the center width and the center height with some type of marker.  I use the Miracle Markers on the dark fabric.   I like this marking system for dark fabrics and flannels, however, it’s important to remember that it disappears with heat.  So all the applique pieces will have to be placed exactly where you want them before pressing any of them. 
 

The next step is to also mark the center width and height of the applique layout diagram:
 


This layout diagram by Bonnie is very small, but it still allows me to see that the center of the flower is not exactly on the center line of my background and I can adjust accordingly.  It shows me where the parts of the bird need to be positioned in reference to the center lines and the edges of the background fabric.  This still isn’t exact, but it gets close enough that I can live with it!

You will also notice that I drew in the lines for my vines and stems so I could place my bluebells and know where the berries will go.  The berries have not been cut out yet.  I still like to do any circles with Perfect Circles and applique those by hand.  As much as I do love machine applique, circles on the machine are difficult and I have not perfected them yet.
 

Once everything is in place (and a stiletto helps with placement – especially small pieces), press all the applique pieces in place at once…and notice that all my placement markings have disappeared.
 

From this point on, raw-edge flannel applique can be handled in the same way as raw-edge applique with cotton fabric.  However, there are a couple of very important factors to keep in mind.

First is once again the “fray factor.”  You will want to make sure that the edges of the flannel applique pieces are as encased with thread as you can.  So first let’s talk about thread.  From my previous blog about thread, everyone knows that I love long-staple cotton thread.  So pick quality thread that closely matches the color of your applique pieces.  I like Mettler thread for applique and have used it for years.  I choose the cotton finish for flannel applique, as it does have more of a folk-art appearance and the cotton thread blends well with that.  Save the silk finish for delicate cotton fabric applique.
 

Last spring at the Pigeon Forge Quilt Fest I was introduced to a new applique thread.  I had the wonderful opportunity to take a class with Sue Nickels, machine applique artist extraordinare.  She has her own line of variegated applique thread through Superior Thread Company.  This thread is simply wonderful. I love variegated thread anyway, but this thread saves you so much time.  Just think…if you have leaves on your applique and the leaves are several shades of green fabric, if you can use a variegated green thread, you probably don’t have to stop and change your thread with every fabric color. 



The only down side is that currently you can only buy it in sets instead of individual spools.  I do hope Superior Thread changes that in the future.

I use a blanket stitch with all raw edge appliques – a zig zag stitch will work just as well, but the blanket stitch is a personal preference of my own.  With either stitch, you will want your stitches close together (but not so close that it’s a satin stitch if you’re using the zig zag).  On my Janome 7700, I have found both a 1.8 for width and length is about perfect.  Line up the sewing machine needle right next to the edge of the applique fabric and be sure to use an open-toe or clear foot for visual accuracy.  Slow down your stitch speed – this is not one of those projects you can “put pedal to the metal.”  Slowing down will help you be more accurate.  The stitches on the outside of the fabric need to be as close as they can be to the edge of the fabric, and the stitches that “bite” into the fabric need to hit on inside cleanly.  Be sure to pivot the fabric as needed – don’t slide it.  If the fabric is slid, this will result in slanted, crooked stitches.  If the applique piece is small, you may find you’re having to pivot the background fabric every few stitches.
 
 

And that’s is fine.  It’s absolutely just what you need to do.

And since all of the applique pieces are pressed and fused into place, you can complete all the pieces that need one color of thread before switching to the next thread color. 

If you’re really liking machine applique, there is a book I would highly recommend – Stitched Raw Edge Applique  by Sue Nickels and Pat Holly.  It covers everything concerning raw edge applique and it has some lovely projects in it.

For those of you that have sent messages and emails concerning the rain/floods in North Carolina, thank you so much for your concern.  It is very wet here, but not nearly as bad as my coastal friends have it.  Our main concern is wind.  The ground is saturated and as the wind picks up, trees have toppled over.  It is my fervent prayer that we see blue sky and bright, yellow sun next week.

Love and Stitches…


Sherri

PS – Remember, all products, books, and patterns mentioned in my blog have been purchased by me.  I’m not on any of these folks’ payroll and I mention them because I do use them and have found them wonderful.

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